Ready Hot RH-F570-CH Faucet for Instant Hot Water Tank - Insulated, Safety Lock Handle, Single Lever, Polished Chrome Finish - Perfect for Kitchen & Office Use

I bought this to replace an insinkerator hot water dispenser (the insikerator was terrible). It is high quality and a low price (always the best combination). The only problem is that it is brushed nickel and the wife would not accept that. So I made some modifications to make it wife acceptable and use higher quality hoses. I'm documenting what I did here for future reference.1. Painting it oil rubbed bronze: - Materials used a. Rust-Oleum 249131 11 oz Universal All Surface Spray Paint, Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic b. Soft foam from a leftover piece of a foam mattress pad (the kind you use for sleeping on when camping). - Procedure a. I took the faucet apart as much as possible. I took off the spout, pulled out the tube inside it, and took off the tip of the spout. I took off the hot water handle (unscrews) and popped out the red button. I couldn't get the cold water handle off or the blue button off so I just painted over it. b. I wrapped any exposed parts with tape that I didn't want painted (e.g., the part of the spout that sticks into the base). c. I filled in any holes that I didn't want paint to enter with pieces of foam cut to fit. I cut two approximately half moon shaped pieces of foam and put them in the bottom of the faucet so each half moon was in the hole on one side of the tubes extending out from the bottom (I also took off the rubber hose). d. I used sandpaper to rough up the surfaces I would paint. I think I used 150 grit (but could be 120 or something like that). e. I then spray painted it. I held the small pieces by sticking a piece of electrical wire (18 or 20 ga) through the foam in the piece and then spray painted it. For example, I put foam in the tip of the spout and then pushed the wire through the foam so I could easily hold the piece while I spray painted it. I put a few coats on and let it dry for at least a couple of days before trying to install.2. Converting it to use braided hoses instead of the cheap plastic stuff it came with. - Materials used a. Braided hose from water supply to faucet (my water supply is a 3/8" compression fitting so I used a 3/8" line: LASCO 10-0962 36-Inch water supply line) b. Braided hose between faucet and heated tank (I used the Ready Hot tank and it was mounted a little less than 2 ft away so I used a 1/4" line: Lasco 10-0946 water supply line). c. A 90 degree fitting at the tank that is 1/4" tube quick connect on one side and 1/4" FIP on the other side (you can see it in the pictures). I didn't buy this (had it already) so I don't have a recommended source for it. d. Two bushing adapters (this was the hardest part; I bought a lot of the wrong adapters before finding this one). I bought Dynapex Metric Pipe Adapter/Oil Pressure 1/4" NPT Male to M10 X 1.0 M10x1 Female Bushing (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLQ61RV). The key thing to know is that the threads on the faucet are M10x1.0. I needed to go from that to the 1/4" and 3/8" compression fittings on the hoses. The bushings got me halfway there. e. Two 1/4 OD x 1/4 FIP adapter. One for each end of the 1/4" hose. This converts the 1/4 FIP on the bushing and the quick connect fitting to the 1/4" compression fitting on the hose. I got these at Home Depot. f. One 3/8 OD x 1/4 FIP adapter. This converts the 1/4 FIP on the bushing to the 3/8" compression fitting on the hose.I connected everything up using lots of teflon thread tape and it works great.