CCJH 6FT Ceiling Mount Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit - Heavy Duty Black L-Shape Bracket System with Strong Bearings for 36" Wide Single Door Panel (Heart Style) - Perfect for Low Ceiling Bedrooms, Closets & Farmhouse Style Homes

I used this hardware to install a barn door in my basement. Our basement is open to the upstairs so we wanted to add a door to give us the ability to close off the basement if needed. First and foremost, I have no complaints about the hardware itself. It's strong, sturdy and the door glides smoothly along the track with minimal noise. It feels like a quality product. My biggest complaint is the installation which seems to echo the sentiments of other reviews I've read. My kit came with zero instructions on ceiling mounting. There was an installation guide included (which, by the way, was all in metric) but it only pertained to a wall installation. Our basement stairs do not have a header above the opening and just a single wall on each side of the stairs parallel to the staircase so a ceiling mount was our only option. Our kit did not include anything pertaining to a ceiling mount. Not a separate pamphlet or sheet....absolutely nothing. Luckily I am fairly handy and was able to figure out how to install it but I would definitely say it takes at least two people. For those of you out there who are looking to purchase or who have purchased this and would like to know how to install on a ceiling, this is what I did:First and foremost, you should attach the door stoppers and connect the tracks using the connecting pins as shown in the installation guide. Then attach all of the L brackets using the bolts and spacers to the track with the exception of the one on the end1) Use a chalk line or painters tape to mark the line parallel to the wall so that you have a straight line to line up the L brackets included in the kit (this is only required if your door will not follow parallel to a wall on the entire length of the track2) Find your floor/ceiling joists with a stud finder. Mark them. 99% of ceiling joists are 16" on center but of course in my case, there was ONE joist that was 17" due to the stairway wall. You will need to mount this to joists as it is very heavy with the door installed3) Take the L bracket that you did NOT attach to the track and place it on the ceiling with the back perpendicular to the chalk line or painters tape and mark the locations for the lag screws (against the wall if you can but keep in mind, the bolts that connect the track to the L brackets protrude past the back of the L bracket on all mounting holes except for the holes where you add the small round connector pin)4) Drill pilot holes for the lag screws. The manual says use a 4mm bit. For those of you, like me, that have US Standard size bits, 5/32" is the closest5) Hang the first L Bracket using the two pilot holes you just drilled with 2 lag screws but don't tighten down all the way. Just enough to keep the bracket in place with a little bit of play6) Attach the rail to the L bracket you just hung with the provided bolt and spacer, don't tighten this all the way down. You will want it to be able to swing the track from the L bracket for now as this will assist in lining up the remaining L brackets7) Mark the pilot holes for each remaining L bracket ensuring they line up with your ceiling joists and drill pilot holes. It helps tremendously if you have another set of hands to hold the track up while you mark each of the remaining pilot holes. The track itself is not heavy but work quickly or your helper is likely to get angry with you for taking so long to mark the holes8) Drive the remaining lag screws into the ceiling joists and then tighten the bolts holding the track to the L brackets9) Relax and have a beer because you're probably sweating by now. Now comes the fun part of lifting a 150 lb barn door the size of a small bathroom onto the track. This is assuming you've already attached the rollers to the door (which is actually very simple and straight-forward). However a word of caution...when you drill through your door to install the rollers, make sure you put painters tape on the opposite side or you will have tear out which will ruin that nice stain/paint job you just put on your brand new barn door10) Throw the junk floor guide that comes with the kit away and buy yourself a nice floor guide with rollers that will attach to the wall vs the floor so you're not drilling into concrete/carpet or routing a 3/8" dado into the bottom of your brand new barn door11) Sit back and admire your brand new beautiful smooth-sliding barn door and have another beer or six and raise your pinky at all of your friends who have "normal" doors